Estate Entrance Way, Pillar - Wall, Proposal Drawling Specs

In my drawing I have shown the left side which would be the same as the right side - mirrored.  Both would have a slight curve to follow the current wooden fence line. Shown in mini sketch at lower right. 

I like to draw out my visions for proposals to help my clients have a clearer understanding of what services I'm offering.  When a client can see your vision they will understand what services you're offering. 

This skill set puts me above others who don't take the time to create value in their proposals. I only go to this level once I have a strong commitment and understanding. We are both on the same path.

Real Example of this design by McAlister Stone KY

Proposed space left side

The first two 8' sections of wood fence would be replaced with 6 foot high pillar and 4 foot high wall. This would be a total of 16 feet of fence removed and replaced with local natural stone. A dry laid stone construction - An Estate Entrance Way. 

Proposed space right side

I like to be a part of the space when planning a project in order to get a better sense of what will be a match to the landscape. I've seen way too many great jobs that just don't fit the landscape.

Have you ever driven down the road and seen a Home or a Hardscape that just looks out of place? You get that gut instinct that something isn't right. Having a BFA in Vision Communication Graphic Design I have a trained education in compositions and negative space. This is a skill set I bring to the table helping to allow me to create Start to Finished work with out a team.  Giving the highest level of quality to each job.


Other quality examples of Dry Laid Stone - Estate Entrance Way can be viewed on:  McAlister Stone - Lancaster KY

Equipment - Buying A Mini Excavator

One year I found my self doing a lot of digging both by hand and with my skid loaders. I realized at this moment in time it was time to add a Mini Excavator to my team of machines. I work alone so my machines are an extension of my crew helping me get the job done with out wear and tear on my body. If your asking why not consider a tractor loader backhoe? Speed would be my first answer. The next question I would ask you did you ever have a 3 in 1 Fax machine? Copies, faxs and phone? I did - it did each task ok but not great. A mini is a true digging machine the speed at which you can work blows a backhoe out of the "dirt" - lol.

I consulted my good friend Jason who is 3rd generation excavator. He helped give me a few helpful suggestions when looking for a machine.

Buying a Mini Excavator / Compact Excavator is not as easy as it might seem when it comes to research. First issue I came across was standard model or # system to understand what I was looking at when comparing models.

What do I mean? If you go to buy a pickup truck you can tell one from another just based on model # 1.5 ton /150/1500,  2.5 ton 250/2500, 3.5 ton 350/3500. You get it now right! If not just think of it like buying milk - Skim, 1%, 2%, ........

I was all over the place trying to determine what my options were. So frustrating. Which is why I needed to write this blog - to help someone else.

This is my list which helped me narrow down my search.

Operating Weight - I wanted to have the largest machine I could tow with out moving into a CDL class for a drivers license. In Maryland I need to consider my trailer rated at 10,000 GVWR weights in at 2500 pounds. Leaving me with a machine weight 7500 (don't forget attachments)

9ft dig depth

Digging Depth - is simply how far down you can reach. I wanted the furthest reach with in my Machine's weight class.

Tail Swing - Conventional Tail Swing Model VS. ZTS Zero Tail Swing.
As you can see below with a conventional tail the rear of the machine hangs over the treads and sticks out.  This type of machine is good if you have big open spaces to work in. I was looking for a Zero Tail Swing since I would be working close to walls.  A ZTS lets me get close to structures with out bumping into them. Not to mention my buddy Jason told me to avoid a conventional tail for my line of work.

conventional tail swing model

ZTS Zero Tail Swing

Numbering system? I found most of the manufactures to list out #'s for example Bobcat E32 = 33.3 hp or Komatsu PC27 = 25.7 hp. This is not the case with all models Kubota KX71 = 25 hp ??? Now at least this is one starting point to help guide. 

Pricing - Used units can start around $15,000 - $24,000  and go up from there.

Conclusion - After spending alot of time looking at all kinds of sites I narrowed down my search to Deere 27 c/d = HITACHI ( really like this machine Hitachi seem to last for ever) Komatsu, Yanmar = I liked Yanmar just because of the price plus you'll notice Just About everyone uses Yanmar engines. What does that say. I had tested a Kubota but they didn't have a ZTS machine at the time - extremely smooth on the hydraulics. I was looking at a few Bobcats not bad I'm just not sure how I feel about Doosan buying them out. Seems like some of the things I was reading many didn't seem to have much confidence in the quality of the machines in the last few years (just what I read on forums). I also liked the Caterpillar machines - the biggest issue was the machines in the class I was looking were to big or to small. The unit I did test I wasn't that impressed with the movement of the machine didn't feel smooth - could have just been that machine. I was also a little frustrated with my local dealership who suggested I come down only to show up to find they had nothing for me to check out. Then the salesman for my territory treated me like I was asking for to much looking for a used unit in the $20,000 range (I had found several on the internet at dealerships). He gave me no sales liture just brushed me off since I didn't have $$ BIG Cash to spend on a new unit. Then we stopped next door to look at Deere - really no luck there so then my good buddy Jason who was helping me out suggested we head over to his local rental store to see if they had anything they wanted to sell. 

Yes they did! ABC Rental in White Marsh a few Yanmar's and Komatsu. It was great the owner and the GM both came out to show me what they had to sell. Night and day with the customer service - keep in mind these guys rent machines not sell them. Top notch customer service... (I own a Franchises Motorcycle dealership - I understand the value a salesperson not a salesman) I picked up a Komatsu PC 27 with a 9ft dig depth, 6590 pounds, open cab, 1500 hours. I added a Geith Bucket to go with my Geith Thumb. Total game changer for the services I now offer. But my Back loves me even more!

A rental shop can always be a great place to start. The machines might not look great but they are always serviced so they are extremely reliable.  They have to be this is how they make there money.

I would always suggest renting a unit before buying one to keep your operating costs down. Plus it lets you try out a bunch of machines if you do plan to buy. If you find you could really use one then buy it. Not like many who always say rent rent rent. I do agree but I don't  - a rental cost $2000 a month I only work part time on my jobs. Having my own machine allows me more flexibility to use it or not.  To me a rental is a waste of money. But if you don't have the funds to buy or the need rent and just factor it in to your quote. 

I could go into to more specs more options.....I won't.  I did seem to read on alot of forums that suggest manufactures have only a small handful of builders in Japan make there machines and put there name on it. This wouldn't surprise me in these day in age.  To read  more check out this thread on Heavy Equipment Forum.

Great site for specs:  http://www.ritchiespecs.com/

Helpful links to a few of the major brands
Bobcat
Caterpillar
Case
Deere
Gehl
IHI
JCB
Komatsu
Kobelco
Kubota
Mustang
New Holland
Takeuchi
Terex
Volvo
Yanmar

Sites to buy used/new:
Equipment Trader
Machine Trader
Rock & Dirt

Other
How to Operate a Mini Excavator

Thank you for reading my Blog. I hope this helps those in need of good content. Please feel free to comment if you have any suggestions, machines you use and love..... All are welcome unless your SPAM!

Alesia Road Millers MD, Retaining Wall Project 2013

I've had my eyes on a barn foundation in my area for some time. Each time I would drive by the folks home I would check to see if any one was home in the hopes to acquire the stone foundation. One day I got lucky!  I asked the home owner if by any chance they wanted to let go of the foundation. The answer was YES!!! Nothing like scoring local stone. 

The home owner asked what it might cost to build a retaining wall in this open gap. I suggested we just do a swap. He loved the idea. I always love a good story.

Now this sitting stone barn foundation will find a new lease on life. I like to repurposed stone as much as I can.

The best part of a stone structure is that some one has touched each stone already. Each stone has been picked and chosen for placement. Next on the list - go pick up all this stone and bring it back to the farm. YIPPIE can't wait.... can never have to much stone.

So I started the dig out with the my Toro Dingo DX 420. I did find a few things as I did my digging. One of which seemed to be an inactive pump line. You just never know what you'll find when you dig. Remember to always call Miss Utility 811 before you dig it's the law!

The biggest issue with this build was tying into the old mortared wall which has built vertical. I built dry with out mortar and used a batter of 1/6 for the project.

I picked all my larger stones to build a protruding foundation below grade.

The last wall I built before this one was the Merrysman Mill Road. The best part of this job I was able to bring all the unused stone. The other wonderful part of this job was I was already warmed up to this stone - letting me jumping right in and building with out any delay. My frames are on each end but with enough room to get my hands in around them. The side to the left which touches the house is being built as a wall end.  As they say in wood work dove tail. Not that the house would ever be taken down but the wall is not using the house as a support as I build.

The small blue pallet and buckets have all my small packing stones. Making it easy for me to move them around and keep the site clean. You will also notice I keep my stone close at hand. The more you have to move to get stones the longer it takes to get the job down.

On the left the mortared wall I'm simply do my best to lock into the wall. It could fail or fall apart before my wall but at least with my wall it can always be taken apart and rebuilt as long as you have 2 hands.

I was half tempted to set up the air hockey table and play a few rounds but I had no partners to make the game interesting. As you can see in this picture I've kept a clear path to get into the wall now with a machine. As I'm working higher up I'm just about ready for the flat cap stones I'll be placing. I keep as many of my large stones off to the side. Finding large stones doesn't come easy. So any time I find them I set them aside - Knowing I'll need them later.

All the caps are now set in place. As some might say rustic. Key is using all the stone. You can really see in this finished picture the section of wall closest to the house and how I've locked in the end of the wall with the new build. This was some very small stone so it took a little time to place each stone. The larger the stone the faster your wall goes up.

I regraded the top of the wall with some of the dirt I took out and still had left over. That never seems to happen. In the photo you can see an original stone foundation by the tractor then the newer built slapped together mortared wall behind the air hockey table. The home owner was so pleased with my work. Everyone that sees this asked why didn't I do all of the wall? Well good question but just one simple answer - "if it ain't broke don't fix it!"

Merrysman Mill Road Finished 2013

Merrymans Mill Road Column

Merrysman Mill Road project called for a column in the landscape. Knowing I'd be working with field stone I designed the column to be wide enough to work best with the stone type. 

I did some measurements from the white road lines in order to attempt to be parallel with the road. My plan was to make the stone foundation set in earth large enough to make any adjustments once I set my frames. Before my build.

Next it was time to build my frames. I simple pulled out some basic tools: 8 ft level, Adjustable T-Square, Dewalt Drill and chalk to build my frames. Set my center line then just measured off this in order to determine my correct frame shape based on my drawling. 

Set up my frames. Based off the road lines.

Kept my frames out far enough I can build around the string lines with out tripping. If I had more room I might have moved them out a little further. I set up my stall mats to help protect the grass as I worked. The double string lines make a bit more of a challenge but I prefer to be able to look down them since I can't build to the line on my way up with irregular shaped stones.

East side

I did find a few nice pieces of Western Maryland stone in order to help me with a stronger longer corner stones. Which offers more of the square shape to define the out side edges.  They also help to insure strength to the structure. 

North side

I also used a few pieces of the Western Maryland stone for the caps. I didn't have a good mid size field stone to use. I either had small, large and boulder size. Ya no that's not going to work to well!

West Side

The key in the design was to have the column balance out the arch wall on the upside. As drivers come up the hill they will see the arch wall first with the column in the back left corner. But as you can see from this shot coming down the street the column is off to the right side - keeping the view focused again on the arched wall.

South Side

What a well balanced design by Mark Willard & Associates. This is why you consider hiring those who are trained to see past just the materials to be used to build the project. But consider the material and the space to create harmony (balance) in the surroundings (space).

Related Blogs:
Merrysman Mill Road Arch / Wall Project Story - 2013
Merrysman Mill Road Arch / Lost Arch - 2013

Pebbles of Wisdom - "Use every stone"

Use every stone 

If you need more get more

Saving "that" stone will only slow you down.

Merrymans Mill Road Arch / Lost Arch - 2013

Merrysman Mill Road lost dry stone arch?!! Yes you might have read in the project story that this blog was going to come. This up hill east side has been covered up. 

The space between the wall and the driveway will have a drain pipe set and covered with earth.

You'll notice to the right of this photo above by the tree the corrugated drain pipe. Which as buried below.

Mark Willard and I spent a very rainy day putting this pipe in place and covering it up with stones, landscape cloth and earth. I was sure to use my 12 x 12 pop-up tent to help keep us a little dry as we worked.

As soon as we ran out of dirt to put down the sun came out. Go figure.

Next day I brought in some enriched top soil using my side dump on my Volvo dump truck. With the side dump half of the job is done on jobs like this.

Mark was off meeting with a client so I went to town to get this spread out for him. Another load of dirt was brought in to help create a mound in order to direct the water run off into the road.

Next Mark picked up some sod and stated putting it down. With this photo you can see how a hump was built in the middle in order to keep the flow away from the wall and back into the driveway.

The main reason for this arch to be covered up? To give the wall a purpose to connect to the driveway.

Other wise a freestanding wall might look strange being disconnected from the driveway. This is why you hire a Professional Landscape Architect.  Having a master plan in mind for your outdoor spaces are key. I've seen way to many jobs that look like they have just been pieced together and nothing connects.

Related Links:
MARK WILLARD & ASSOCIATES, LLC
American Society of Landscape Architects - Chapters in your area
Maryland Chapter