Tools - Carbide Hammer & Chisel's

When I first started into stone a mason friend helped directed me to purchase the following carbide chisels- Tracer, Pointer and a Set. When I started into my journey with stone I began to use my handy carbide chisels. They worked great. The benefit of carbide is the strength of the metal helping to keep the edges sharper longer. I purchased my first ones from Bon Tools. This was a great place for me to start with. Later I learned about Trow and Holden who actually make the tools. 

One of the first workshops I went to by Dan Snow w/ Andrew Pighills, in 2008 at the Mohonk Preserve NY. I had noticed both Dan and Andrew when they picked up any tool this was the hammer of choice for this workshop. Andrew seemed to like the Fiberglass. Dan had the wood. Dan's hammer was a little different. ( 3) Trimming $182 - 2.5 lb ) 

I decided if both guys used this type of tool maybe I should try one on for size. I liked it. I found once I started using this hammer I rarely pulled out the chisel's. What I liked about the Trimming Hammer  was it saving me one step. I didn't have to stop what I as doing to pick up a chisel. I was able to trim on the go. Keep in mind most of the stone I use in my area is very hard to shape. Butler stone really cuts down on the life spanned of the blades forcing me to sharpen them more often than other stones.

The key with purchasing the right tools. You have to first come to realize:

1) Not like A Superman Costume you will not become the best stone shaping master by buying a tool! Taking a workshop along with practice will help guide you to success. 

2) One can easily become obsessed with tools, like I did when I first started learning a new craft. With the help of a good instructor - I was asked to focus on the natural beauty of the stone unbeaten. Moral of the story. Shape what you need to but don't waste time doing it. PUT THE HAMMER DOWN! Step away from the wall. (ok sorry I was thinking about cops and robbers) 

3) Know your stone! Different hammers/chisels/tools will fit your needs based on style, stone harness.... Yes let's not forget your budget - just be sure to make a choice based on long term use. A Carbide tool is 2x + then a non carbide. Is it worth it? Depends on how invested you are? For me YES. 

4) If you make the investment YOU NEED TO KNOW HOW TO SHARPEN AND MAINTAIN your tools.  See my YouTube video listed below or others.

These are my Carbide tools back in 2012. I still own and use all of them and have added only a few more. The Pink duck tape helps me find them faster. I spray paint all of them to keep them from rusting. (Update 2017- Rust is no problem! A great New safe product called Metal Rescue can do magic on anything that has rust.) 

Left to Right

Hammers
1) Rock Pick  $121 - 1.5 lb Carbide blade and 16 tooth bushing head. I use this a lot on some of my softer stone such as sand stone ( PA Blue stone ) great for taking off edges without running the risk of the stone splitting into layers. Down side it does leave its mark.
2) Trimming $192 3 lb w/Concave carbide double edge's both sides. Great when you need a little more weight behind your swing. 
3) Trimming $182 - 2.5 lb w/Concave carbide double edge's front and single back. My Favorite for a little of everything. This with a brick hammer and I'm good to go.

Chisels
4) Hand Tracer $76 - 1" Stock 1" 1/2 Blade. Great for splitting stones. Tracer Video
5)  Rocko $82 - 1" Stock 1" 1/2 Blade $82 Great for shaping stone edges. Keeping the energy of your hits direct and kicking out.  ( Rockin Walls Blog review ) Rocko Video
6) Hand Point $47 -  5/8" stock. Used for taking of high points Point Video
7) Hand Set $109 - 1" 1/8 Stock with 3" Blade. Used for trimming large stone edges. Works best with flatter stones. ( I have yet to use this chisel) Set Video

My favorites in order

3, 4, 5, 2, 

Links:
Trow and Holden - Vermont USA

Starter Tool Set

Video How to Sharpen Carbide tools.

Rockin Walls Tool Sponsors! 
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Testing / Tool List- level 1

Preparation: Level 1 testing (DSC)

Lay out rock sorted into function

Keep all hearting/infill within 24” of wall

Lay out rock similar to the way it comes off the old wall – especially near bottom

Copping stones are the furthest away when sorted

Lay coping stones out in the order they came off the wall

Make sure you have good tie stones available and set aside

Look through “new stone” for potential ties and copes or good foundation stones

You can even set these aside before the competition starts!


Building:

Leave 18” of clear space between wall foundation and rocks

Tie your own strings to the batter frames provided

Foundation – up and out by 4” ( Any protruding foundation measurements refer to Specification Sheet supplied on the day  of the competition. Normally 2 inch either side but check spec. )

Build a foundation that looks like a PATIO – extra points!

Try to place tie-in stones (to your neighbor) before they do

Place tie-in stones so that you zipper past the  line that is between you and  your neighbor

If you get ahead of you neighbor - keep building up and it is their responsibility to mesh with your zipper

Cover stones below copes at Shaker Village KY -  always refer to spec on the day. 

When copping – follow the “random” patern of 2-1-2-1-2-1-2-1 – might need 35-40 (15-30 min to do)


General Stuff:

Neil says – for speed and efficiency – work with your shoulders perpendicular to wall

Keep your coarse work level

Don’t work stone too much – points deducted

Bigger stuff lower in the wall

Mossy side out

Work to the line but don’t touch the line (up and out)

Keep building up each side of the wall at the same time

Keep tools on top of wall so when you switch side you close to tools

Keep your hands moving constantly

If you are stuck  - Pack!

Shadows are better than loose fillers

Timing:

Get to site early and register early - (Wether or not if you arrive to register for the competition first on site or 5 minutes before the comp starts there is no way to determine what section you might get. It's called the luck of the draw on the day. I have seen the worst section on the field turn out to be the winner of the competition, it all up to the skill  of the individual.)

Tear out should be done in 30 Minutes

Tie stones should be in by lunch break


Tool List:

* Small Cooler and water container

* String

* Line Pins

*  Small Pickaxe garden tool..ect (great for digging out the little stuff on for foundation)

* Pickaxe (one year the fellow next to me had to work throw tree roots to build foundation-ya fun!)

* Rock hammer ( the basic mason / brick hammer will do the job and any other you use often)

* 2 or 6lb sledge – short handle (busting stones if needed)

Chisel (if you use them - time limited during testing suggest avoid chiseling)

* Tape Measure

* Gloves – 2 pair

* Safety glasses

Steel toed boots?

Head lamp (if you like to work in the dark)

Knee pads (if used- I find they slow me down for testing)

* Level (s) if used

* Buckets – Tubs

Grinder

Quickie saw

Large fan

Generator

Dynamite

Plastic explosives

Fuses

Gas grill

Cheer leaders

Motivational CD’s (Dan Snow)

Sherpa guides to carry all my stuff


NOTES: * = Yes  are a should have. Ha ha factor starts at Grinder and below....

This list above has been supplied by: 

Dale Mitchell
Mitchell Landscapes, LLC
WWW.MitchellLandscapes.com



Some information has been (added) or modified to help others plan for a great test day! 
DSC offers a on site port-a potti, rebar plus cross bars for top, string lines... but as a up and coming professional - I would advise you bring the needed tools you use on the day to day. If you have any questions ask the organization you are testing with. 


If your doing a special feature on site, make sure you bring your one wood for frames, rebar... go equipped and ask questions. 


DSWA level 2 notes:
I tested in spring this year. What did I some how forget? 3' or 4' level. Hard to build a cheek end (wall head) with out one. Ok maybe you can. I'm not that good. All other tools listed above. 

Tool - Neil's Sod Tool

Neil Rippingale one of the most amazing stone masons I have ever had the opportunity to work with. But when he's not laying stone he's creating some very practical tools. This one was spotted in the back of his truck. The tool is a Sod Removal- how does this work? The device bolts to the bottom of his skid loader bucket. As the machine is moving backwards the tool skims the top layer of Sod. Depth believed to be 6 inch's below grade. Making a very clean cut, allowing for sod removal and relocating if needed. Why would one need to do this? When building a wall you most build your footer for your wall. This should be 6-8 inchs below grade. This Sod Removal tool makes for a clean cut without having to hand dig. Quick, easy and great for large jobs which a skid loader can get too.

You can see in the back round just how well this tool worked at the Shaker Village KY site. Small stone aggregate was filled for the safety of the public. The other benefit as this wall grows in the future less work will be required for site prep.