Tuesday, August 28, 2018

2018 Ellicott City MD, 680+ Sq Ft Bluestone Patio w/ 3 beautiful tiered steps - Backyard


5 Years ago I had the great opportunity to build a beautiful retaining wall in this same backyard for Gary and Michelle. Now it was time for part 2 - backyard usable flat space along with some new steps. A big upgrade from the temporary 2x4 steps Gary built. Michelle spent many hours looking and thinking just about what would fit her design style. The basic tread on tread was just to simple without making any statement. Now with the some limitations of dry laid we would have to come together with her findings on the internet. The parameters needed to allow me to work with large stones with weight to avoid movement, matching similar stone colors on the home and in the wall. The choice was to go with Bluestone treads along with Laurel Mountain stone for under the treads. More of the construction details further in the blog. 


680 Sq Ft Patio construction. Colonial Bluestone squares and rectangles, natural cleft - full color. We went with the full color to gain some of the copper and tans to blend with the copper colored stones in the retaining wall. Michelle also choose the Yellow cobbles to match the Laurel mountain stones on the steps. When building flatwork I choose to use a large cobble granite stone called "Jumbo". The Jumbo creates a good strong edging. Helping to hold in all the base, bedding stone and bluestone. As I like to say your building a sandbox. You need an edging to hold everything underneath inside. Pretty simple when it comes to dry laid more is always better. 

A great deal of time was spent with Michelle to help maximize but minimize the turf between the patio and retaining wall. Enough but not too much.  In addition have a smooth complementing mirrored curves to the retaining wall.



Some of the challenges with this build were two different grades. Everything starts off the house steps I built first. Then comes around the corner here and now has to meet the window wells. So this might be a little confusing. From the house steps I come out both ways 1/8th fall. Now as I come around to this side of house I just have to drop to the widows which came out to 1/4th fall at the same time still falling 1/8th away from the home. 1/8th is the bare min. Preferable with the natural cleft it is best to go with 1/4th. The client felt the angle under the steps with the patio would visually look to drastic. 


Now working level from window to window well all the way across to basement steps. Now I could have dropped again but the height worked out well with the jumbo cobbles. I was able to place half of the cobble below against the concrete steps.  Now with the newly added 6 inch cobble step from the patio to the basement steps. (Note: Jumbo cobbles standing vertical length 10"+) A simple and easy solution without changing the grade on the patio with one more drop down. The clients were extremely happy with this upgrade. Since in the past they have had extreme flooding in the backyard. One more security to avoid excess water being able flood out there basement. 


Cobbles were grinded on the sides to create a tight side by side fit. More below regarding the bonus flashing added. 



Amazing transformation from old to new. Check out Gary's 2x4 temporary steps under the sliding glass door. 


Full color bluestone has so many amazing shades of colors for blues, coppers, tans, greens and so on.


Just a little bit on the construction of the steps (7.25"+/- rise). First (bottom) steps 10' L x 13" tread, Second step 8' L x 13" tread, Top landing 6'L x 20" wide. Built with natural blue stone treads ranging from 3" - 4" thick. I built up under with the Laurel Mountain (tan) stone spending countless hours with a 7" Diamond Cup. Grinding and grinding to get each stone level for the bluestones to sit on. When it comes to steps I prefer to build 16" treads. You will also notice they bluestone overhang by 2"+ so you actually do get more like a 15" tread with the overhang. On these I had to work up a compromise with the client to minimize the loss of patio space. You will also notice great detail went into avoiding any running joints on the step construction. The bluestone stone to stone are flush both on the sides and on the tops. Not easy to do with natural stone set dry laid. Getting this even only comes with the countless ours of shaping. 

More pics below on this construction. NOTE: in right corner of lower step grey piping. These are 1/2" plastic electrical piping under patio. In the event of adding low voltage lighting the pipes only will need wiring. The transformer can plug right into the wall outlet above. Green flags note the exit. 


You can now see the stone retaining wall in the background I constructed 5 years earlier. This section of patio comes out from the door 18' L + then from the left to right 15' wide + (300 Sq Ft)



A great deal was spent to adjust and clean up unsightly lines in the pattern.  Along with steps taken to thermal out industry standard chisel marks on high spots from the quarry. These are natural stone cut by man so they are not always square. Nor does mother earth make each stone flat and uniformed. Each has a personality and character. 


Right side patio in this image cut with a gas cut off saw.  Where the left has the CPVC 1/2" pipe set waiting approval by client.


Bluestone patio pattern extended past suggested areas to be cut for curve. 


You know how sometimes in the middle night you come up with the best ideas!? Well this is one of them. The day before when I started this process of grinding and setting the cobbles. The client Michelle asked how the cobbles would keep all the bedding/ base stone in? While my original plan was ramp up the road base called crush and run CR8 in our area against the backside of the cobbles. In the middle of the night I was thinking about this and come up with very simple solution. To minimize stone or dust washing threw the small gaps between the cobble - Aluminium Flashing.  The magic answer. I cut 6" high and set this to the bottom of the cobbles which are standing vertical compared to the edging which are set long. This allows for the 2"+ bluestone at the top. The flashing is overlapped in middle and wrapped around the corners back to the cement. This will will also help to slow any extra water from getting back down the basement steps. 


Very clean and simple solution giving a nice 6" step up to patio. 


Typically the gutter and sump pump drain would be under the patio. The client choose to have these stay above. At any point with the dry laid stone patio it would be very easy to come back and set PVC piping for drains under patio. 


Marking and cutting the bluestones with a gas powered cut off saw and water system minimizing dust. 





Often many clients have no true understanding of the equipment which is required to produce something such as this. I listed out the main tools I used and calculated realistic days needed for each. This is what I used and how much would have been spent if rented from up the street. 

In my region flatwork such as this ranges from $27-$35. Not including the cobble edging. There is a great deal just in the Bluestone along with equipment. Then you have all the hauling of the base, bedding, dirt, and topsoil. When you price out today's composite decks there a close match. Pavers yes are a bit cheaper.  BUT they don't do so well with UV light and fade, not to mention don't always like salt if used during winter. Concrete can be super clean and simple.  Just lacks an real personality and ends up with cracks over time. 


Setting an all curver patio can be difficult to come up with a pattern. I ball parked pasted the intended cut area by a foot. In this photo keep in mind everything started in the at the steps in the very right corner. I set a 2'x2' stone first to start my pattern. Working against the house foundation was not perfectly flat did make the pattern a bit challenging.  (Always check your corners are square with a square or measure out one way 3ft make a mark then the other way 4ft then mark. Connect the two you should have 5ft. If not your not square.) Then as I went you can see I built out from the steps along the house keeping the 1/8th slope. Next I would start to build away from the house out 1/8th slope. Then the my pattern would the have to go to the left of the house in hopes that everything would still be square. I made cuts closest to the house and along the window wells. I also did my best to build with larger stones on the outsides for strength. Minimizing the chance of a little stone which often have a tendency to shift. 



The Electric Evolution 12" ($212.00) saw comes in handy for quick markings or precision cuts. This saw having an inline motor doesn't do nose dives when giving it throttle. Allowing for more control. I use a dust collector which catches cutting dust along with a large fan to safely remove other dust from the cutting area.


All areas of the future patio I removed all organic topsoil. This section closest to the home had the best sub base which the bedding stone sat directly on. Only to the outer edges did I have to build up with a road base and compact. The majority of the construction would be Sub base - compacted earth, Base CR8 compacted in little wetted 2 inch lifts.  A total of 4" inches as needed in most areas. Then bedding stone 3/8th wash aggregate #8 ranging from 1"-3". The Bluestone was on average 2". Short version - all areas cleared topsoil and organic material ie grass. Then built up since everything was lower. 


Steps - each and every one of these stones had to be hand shaped to achieve this high level of fit and finish for a dry laid stone construction. Each bluestone was saw cut then chisel faced then thermaled with a rose bud torch using propane and oxygen. 


Each course just like walling was built up and packed as needed. 


Just a few tools and equipment. The Dewalt dust collector in yellow to right dingo helping to bring in the larger sheets of bluestone treads. Tent to keep the heat down. Hi-Vis paint marking for the suggested patio layout by client.


The bluestone is one of my favorites to thermal. Mainly since you get the result you're hoping for after hitting the wet areas with the torch. This removes the clean smooth saw cut face giving a sand blasted look.  A more aesthetically pleasing look to the stone face. 


7" Grinder with the dust collector hooked up to it. Grinding and grinding with the dewalt diamond cup wheel.


Course by course, step by step. All dry laid stone foundation set on earth. 


Now family and friends are able to enjoy this living space all year round. Natural stone never goes out of style like man made "stones". A flexible and permeable system putting water back into the earth and not into stormwater systems. Less runoff as Ellicott City has seen time and time again in the last few years. Easily maintained with minimal adjustments that are typically needed in our region. Far more visual appeal than any other choice on the market today! 

Why spend money to have a backyard that looks like everyone else in the neighborhood. Let Rockin Walls create functional art that can be shared for generations. 

Quality not Quantity - One project at a time. Book now 443-291-9388 to transform your dreams into a functional living space. 

Monday, July 16, 2018

Hearting the Heart of the Wall


Hearting also referred to as packing are the heart of a proper dry laid stone construction. Hearting are the stone placed large to small to fill your voids. This keeps your structure nice and tight avoiding implosion or collapsing.
A few key notes: Pack as you go, packing should always be done by large to small stones PLACED, never use gravel it will never lock in, packing should never be taller then your front or back stone, frustrated and can't find that magic stone? Stop and pack let your mind unwind.

Sunday, June 10, 2018

2018 Balducci Bluestone Outdoor Living Space - Monkton MD


This project was Built for Nick Balducci who owns 2 Bluestone Quarries in NY. This Backyard makeover highlight all his stone except the granite cobbles and aggregated. Patio, Walkway, Seating walls, Fire pit area. 

Patio 14'L x 24' W bluestone sheet stock (2"-4" Thick) bedded on 4" -/+ of 3/8th single washed aggregate ( called #8 in our region) Seating walls 23"-24" H with flat caps ranging from 2"- 4"H, Front aggregate walkway and fire pit area 24' circle filled with 3/4" limestone aggregate (called #57 in our region) with Jumbo Granite Cobbles 7" H x 10" L x 3.5" W +/- for all the edging. The fire pit are also has a BRAND New Product Bluestone Edging ranging from 7"H x 24" -/+ with many more options coming. The treads are Natural Cleft tops with Thermal faces 6' L from house then 5' L going to upper grass landing. Specs: 18" W set at 16" +/- walk Tread, 7" +/- Rise.

All stone maybe purchased at www.Balduccistoneyard.com Located at Maryland Line off I-83

The benefits of dry laid stone walks, patios, walls are flexible, free draining - Permeable! They can easily be repaired or rebuilt with minimal impact to our landfills. Natural stone never goes out of style! Typical Bluestone patios need stone adjustments every 15-20 years when bedded correctly.

Rockin Walls is ready to help you expand your living space to the great outdoors!  443-291-9388 www.RockinWalls.com

Friday, April 20, 2018

FREE SEMINAR! Understanding Proper Dry Laid Stone Construction

FREE SEMINAR!
Understanding Proper Dry Laid Stone Construction

This seminar is FREE to attend and is intended for professionals in the industry: (Landscape Architects, Landscape Designers, Landscape Companies and their Employees, Masons, Hardscape Installers, Students, Teachers/Instructors).

The seminar will be held on Saturday, April 28, 2018 from 9:30am-noon
@ the Rockin Walls Training Center in Hampstead, MD 21074
by Mark Jurus, Certified DSWA and DSC Instructor/Waller.


​
The seminar will cover:
·      Basic terminology,
·      Understanding key elements (What makes a solid proper dry laid stone construction),
·      Why single sided walls fail!
·      Understanding why clean stone along with landscape cloth can cause more harm than good,
·      What you should look for when hiring or designing a stone wall,
·      Clear understanding of the right stone for the job,
·      How and where to start the design process,
·      Sustainable green building, (why it is so important to create eco systems for wildlife).

RSVP Mark@RockinWalls.com

Please feel free to share our seminar with your employees, students, colleagues, and professional members as well as through social media. 


About:
Mark Jurus has been working with stone since 2007 and started his certification process in 2009. Currently dual certified both with Dry Stone Conservancy (​DSC)​US  Level 2 Journeyman and Dry Stone Walling Association (DSWA) ​of Great Britain Level 3A. Mark holds the highest certification in surrounding states. In addition Mar​k is also a certified instructor and ​in 2014 set up the Rockin Walls Training Center.
​Mark and the Rockin Walls Training Center are both d​edicated to training and DSWA certification. 

Mark has been certified by several of the leaders in our industry, which includes Neil Rippingale DSC/DSWA Master Examiner from Scotland, Dan Snow DSC/DSWA Master Examiner from Vermont, Chris Tanguay Master Craftsman/Examiner DSWA-GB, DSC-US, and Brian Post Master Craftsman/Examiner DSWA-GB, Executive Director The Stone Trust VT, Licensed Landscape Architect VT. Neil has worked extensively with National Park Service (NPS)​ in the US for over 15 years and Dan is widely known ​for​ his creative stone art as seen in his two books. Mark has also worked on projects in Canada with DSWA Master/Examiner Dean McL​ellan 2012 StoneWurx and 2014 Willowbank School building two of the newest ​and largest inhabited dry laid stone structures in North America.
​
​Mark has lead trainings for members of the staff at:
·      Historical Preservation Training Center - National Park Service (HPTC NPS)​
·      Gettysburg Battlefield NPS in ​2016
·      Hopewell Furnace PA NPS 2016
·      Delaware Water Gap PA NPS 2017


Questions? or to RSVP email Mark@RockinWalls.com
Or call 443.291.9388

Monday, April 16, 2018

PASS! DSWA Level 3A, DSC 2, 25 Degree Slope & Curved Wall




Pass! April 13 2018
Examiners:
- Chris Tanguay (Maine) Master Craftsman (Level IV) DSWA-GB, DSC-US  Examiner / Instructor.
- Brian Post (Vermont) Master Craftsman (Level IV) DSWA-GB,  Examiner / Instructor, Licensed Landscape Architect VT, Executive Director of The Stone Trust.

As many of you know, I've been working towards my higher certifications for walling.  DSWA Level 3 Advanced and finishing my DSC Level 2 Journeyman requirements. This past fall I began the process of building two features highly finished. I started off with the 25 Degree (20) Sloped Wall working through the winter.  Then moving onto the Curved Wall, just finished in the last month. 

Exhausting, body aching, restless nights of body pain, late night dinners, loss of income, as well as decreased time with family and friends, lots of stone, stone shaping and stone waste, mind games, finding the drive to push through all kinds of weather, rain, snow, cold, short days...

Was it worth it?   YES! 

I learned so much about myself, my work ethic, my skill level and my drive to succeed from this process. This is why I believe so strongly in the certification programs. Those who don't choose to pursue this will never understand. It is difficult to put into words. Those who are certified will understand. 

Many Thanks to my #1 Supporter - My Wife Teresa P! 

Wall Specs: West Mountain Stone PA
Curved wall:  Below Grade protruding 35" foundation set in earth, 14' radius curve total length 16' inside, 45" build height below copes, 9" Vertical dressed copes, Tie stones set halfway, set on center 36" inside 27" base of wall with 15.5 top of wall,  NO RUNNING JOINTS!

20 Degree Sloped Wall:  Built on 25 degree slope, 14' length, large vertical stepper and boulders for cheekend, Stepped protruding foundation set in earth, 40" build height below 17"+ cover bands with 9" +/-  x 14" vertical battered extremely dressed copes, Tie stones set at 20" on 36" center 10"-12" w x 5"-6" h x 27" l, 1:6 batter, 14" top of wall before covers, 54" +/- total build height above foundation.  NO RUNNING JOINTS!

Enjoy....







25 (20) Degree Sloped Wall










Sunday, February 4, 2018

11/2017 Cockeysville Retaining Wall, Happy Hollow


11/2017 Happy Hollow Road, Cockeysville Maryland. 28' l x from 2'-5' h retaining wall built with West Mountain Stone.  Flat caps built to the grade going up hill. Protruding foundation below grade. Tie stones set halfway up the wall set around every 3 ft.  mainly in the taller sections. The steps with walk I rebuilt with Colonial Blue Stone. This project had some very interesting turns along the way. 



The start was the timber retaining wall. I underestimated the amount of work it would take to disassemble this. I figure I'll come in with my mini excavated and thumb and just pick these 20 year old wood right apart.  I was so WRONG!


TIP 1. So if you need to know the tool of choice I would suggest a reciprocating saw along with a 9" carbide blade in order to cut either the nails, rebar or bolts which hold the timbers together. TIP 2 A few pry bars, crowbars and large hammer. Now the other thing I didn't pay much attention to since I don't build timber walls are all the corners they are extremely tight. They are the hardest things to dissemble when they lock to each other. Really no different than any other structure. The only issue with these were every other timber stat on time running the opposite directions. So you had to work your way down one at a time. 


One note regarding the steps with the wall. Typically I build my walls around my steps. In these situation I wanted to keep them separated. The main reason for this is so if either one ever needed to be repaired they could.  


The next thing I had to consider was the new wall would have below grade foundation and1:6 batter for the wall angle. Why I'm I bring this point up? Well notice the wall comes to the house corner there for I have a vertical section I need to build into. I kept some room in order for me to build a corner/column which was the simplest solution for the wall. 


Now the challenge with a corner is that you have to go long with every other stone. Plus stay on courses. While it solves the solution it does require a little more technical work.  I always love challenge. 



This was the start of the wall and steps removal. 


Timber by timber with a little help from the reciprocating saw.


One thing I didn't take into consideration since I didn't know. Was the driveway was installed after the wall was built. Now if you asking again why I'm bring up such a key point? When they paved the driveway they can only install so much blacktop. So the edges of the driveway was very thin like 2 inches. Normally I believe a good strong blacktop driveway should be about 4-5" thick. In the process of removing the timbers below the driveway areas of the black top caused some areas to lift. Take great consideration when stripping out existing structures. You just know what the other guy/gal did before you.


Now everything was removed and cleaned up. It was time to start working on the walkway. The wall build would be built after the steps /walk were set. The reason for this is the steps dictate the location of the wall along with the wall height. Most projects which would involve steps you start there first. Steps set the tone for the remainder of the construction. 


The one tool I love for digging out my foundations is the rapid hand digger. This is the tool sitting on the green turf. A few of the other issues I ran into was the space to place all the extra dirt which I had to removed. One thing which was changed in the design was the removal of the steps which had been built in the timber wall. Luckily this was a great place to store some of that extra dirt while I worked. You always should keep your materials close at hand. Extra steps create more work which is labor, and wear and tear on equipment. You have to think about every movement even the smallest steps add up over time.  Understanding staging is a key ingredient to one's success of job management. 

Related Blog: Tool - Rapid Digger


A few frames have been set as I start my build into the steps and then around the corner. Starting at the lowest point as I head toward the tallest section by the house. One other thing I use lot on driveways are rubber stall mats along with green turf. Both do a great job to protect surfaces. In addition make for easy clean ups.




One great thing in this image to show is the string line which sits on top of the last cap stones then goes to the house. This is the angle in which I'm building to as I stay on my courses. There are several different methods of setting caps or cope stones. I don't use this method much. I love this style of copes when they site on the top of a wall. 




This is the last section of timbers being removed. Making room for the last part of the wall. You might not have noticed but if you go back up in the images you will see many of the photos show the last section was kept in place. The reason for this is to minimize or reduce the failure of the bank falling down in the work area. Plus it just happens to be over 60" of retaining wall. A few other wonderful surprises I found when removing this last section by the corner of the house was the bug damage. Whatever was in the timbers eating decided to move to the house for dinner.  Moral of the story constructing with any material ie, natural stone, pavers, concrete, masonry.....other than wood for a retaining wall could save you alot in repair bills later. No one likes bugs eating there home. Do you?


I've included this example of a timber retaining wall that leaning forward.  This is too often the case with this style of construction. Unless it's new construction. This image even showing the rotten timber on the top.  This structure has the deadman but still is lean forward due to hydraulic pressure behind it. Deadman are what ties the timber walls back into the bank.  See the short squares in the wall? Those are the deadman. Timber walls may have a max life of 20 years typically more like 10-15 years is safe. Most railroad ties are in the same time frame. If you have a railroad tie wall you should remove it NOW! Why because railroad timbers have become increasingly hard to dispose of due to hazardous waste guidelines. Only a handful of place still will dispose of them at this time. I believe we may see the same situation with older treated timbers in the years to come. Just don't build with wood. It will be cheaper and quick and easy solution but your only asking for problems down the road. 


The other thing I encountered when disassembling the timbers from the house was the stucco on the house accidently came off when removing. The aged home of 20 years was week. The stucco process is over a styrofoam insulation. So one more thing to consider if your working with a home with this style of finish. It was a great accident since the homeowner need to patch other failed areas. Since he had a full blown wood working shop he also went ahead and fixed up all the damaged areas of wood at the corner of the home. 




On this jobsite image you can see a few pieces of equipment which help me out on the job. The one would be the Dewalt Hepa Vac for dust extraction. Time to time I'll use a diamond cup wheel on a grinder.  This helps when I have a few lumps and bumps - High spots which I can quickly remove. Minimizing wear and tear on my body and lungs. The dingo helps me with my digout along with moving the stone as I need more or less. 



In this photo one thing I didn't talk about was this retaining wall has double staggered tie stones. The tie stones are set about every 18" up the wall. So in the tallest section closest to the house I have my second group of ties. Tie stones which are also referred to as throw stones. Tie the two walls together. As the wall settles this acts as a floor to keep them supported above. The ties are protruding for a few reasons. The first is structural if the upper courses begin to settle the ties when sticking out act as a hand ready to catch them giving them that extra support. The second is to allow anyone who is a professional waller to quickly identify that this was built by a trainer waller. This wall will out last the life of this home.




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